Few things are more adorable and cute than a new kitten or puppy. However, when choosing a new puppy or kitten, one should remember that a new pet is a pet for life.  Buying a young pet is easily an act of impulse due to the "cuteness" of the animal, but it's very important to do research on any type of new addition to the family.

What kind of pet to get?
      All puppies and kittens are essentially the same early on--they play, eat, love attention, and are very active.  However, a Bassett hound has a totally different personality from a Chow Chow.  Overall size should be a consideration as should general personality.  Certain dogs are bred for active lifestyles.  Consequently, these dogs don't do as well in an apartment-type of setting that gets little activity.  Most cats as a rule are about the same as far as their needs and activity level.  Granted you have social cats (lap-sitters) and not so social (might allow some petting and that's about it) but this can be difficult to determine at time you're getting a kitten.
     Mix breed dogs are generally more healthier than purebred dogs.  The unique traits that are bred for in one breed versus another ensure certain body types (Dachshund vs Great Dane) but also are selective for the passage of not so good traits (i.e. Dachshunds have weak backs and get spinal disc disease commonly).  Likewise, Cocker Spaniels are bred for beautiful long ears, but those ears are prone to chronic ear infections.  Mix breeds may not have as many of the unique traits of certain breeds, but they also don't have as many "bad" traits either.
      Another decision making process should be:  "What do you want?"  Do you want an indoor or outdoor dog?  Most any dog can be a suitable indoor pet (if you have the space for large breeds), but not all can be mostly outdoors.  In Missouri, the weather extremes dictate that most outdoor dogs not be petite and should have a decent fur coat (not naked skin like a Chihuahua).  Small dogs can't handle the cold well and certain breeds (bulldogs, Boston terriers, and pugs) can't handle the heat.  These dogs should be indoors almost exclusively.  Some very active large breeds such as Greyhounds and Labrador retrievers need large yards to run in or need to be walked frequently for exercise.  These dogs are great for the active lifestyle person, but it may not be fair to the dog if the owner's activity level is too low for the dog.

Where to get a pet?
     Once the type and breed of the dog is decided on the next step in adopting is where to get the pet.  By far the best way to acquire a new pet is if you know the current owner personally.  That way the history of the dog is well known and if any questions arise about the new pet you can always ask the previous owner (such as if the dog had ever been allergic to a certain food, etc.).  However, this is generally not the way most people are able to get a new puppy or kitten.  The other most common places to get a new pet include from a professional breeder, from a pet store, a private individual, or from the pound or shelter.  There are definitely plusses as well as minuses in all four options. 
     Buying from professional breeders is usually the way most people get a purebred dog or cat.  As a general rule breeders are specialized in a certain breed and know their breed quite well.  Most breeders raise show quality animals and sell them for a normally higher rate than an average dog.  Most breeds usually provide some sort of written contract and guarantee.  Since finding good homes for their pets is important to some breeders especially good quality breeders will often times interview the prospective owners to see if they are a good match for the dog or cat.  Many times, breeders are very happy to have you tour their facility and meet the new pet's mother and father and are very open about their past history.  These new puppies or kittens are normally up to date on their current shots, and have been seen by a veterinarian before being sold.  Finally, breeders of purebreds will be able to supply the AKC registration papers on purchase of the pet as well as current medical histories.  If all of the above is apparent when visiting a breeder then you can usually be assured of a good quality animal for the price you pay.  Unfortunately, dog breeding can be a lucrative business, and Missouri is known as one of the largest "puppy mill" states in the nation.  Sadly, this means that there are many breeders who breed dogs as quick as possible with little thought of the health of the Mom or pups.  When picking out a puppy, if you are unable to view the facility, or even the location of the mom (generally, these dogs are kept exclusively in cages outside with little or no exercise available) then a suspect breeder should be considered.  Many times breeders will give the dog their own vaccines for convenience as well as to save money, but it is always best to make sure the vaccines were given by a licensed veterinarian to make sure everything was done correctly.  Keep in mind, there are many very good high quality breeders out there when picking out a dog, but also keep in mind that for every one, there is usually an equal or greater number of unscrupulous ones.  Many people that happen to visit a "puppy mill" often times will be offended by what they see but will purchase a puppy anyway in hopes to "save" that one from that type of life.  By doing so, you are supporting the very existence of the "puppy mill".  If you do suspect one, contact the ASPCA. 
      Pet stores are also a good source for pure breed dogs, and actually, most pet stores get their dogs from dog breeders.  Since many of the dogs from dog breeders that are sold to pet stores are not the high- quality "show able" dogs (let's face it, most breeders would rather keep those and sell them on their own) they are sometimes less expensive.  Pet stores generally do a good job maintaining vaccinations and health of their pets once they get the dogs; the only unanswerable question about the pups is where did they get them--pet stores can also fall prey to "puppy mills".  Often times pet stores also offer guarantees and honor some type of contract with the buyer.
     Private owners are generally a wild card when it comes to getting a pet.  Pets bought in this manner are usually not as expensive and the bloodline of the pet can vary from breeder quality purebred, to normal old mutt.  Some sellers may have a full vaccine history and vet records, others may tell you the dog has yet to be to the vet (keep in mind ALL dogs and cats should visit a vet by at least 3 months of age!).  You never really know what you are getting with an ad-in-the-paper type of pet seller, but usually they are just caring people that want to find a home for some unplanned puppies.  Remember to try and get as much history about the pet as possible and ask many questions.
     Finally, shelters and pounds are great places to find just about anything you want.  Shelters and pounds try and save abandoned and unwanted pets and their purpose is a strong one.  Shelters usually have pure breeds as well as mutts, and offer puppies and kittens as well as adult animals.  Animals from the shelter are generally very inexpensive compared to others, but keep in mind many of these animals will have health or behavior concerns that may need to be met by a veterinarian.  Adult dogs and cats are usually passed over for the cute young animals, but they can make great pets too.  Unfortunately, rarely is the whole history available when getting one of these older animals so you may have to be ready for anything once it gets home (chronic allergies that only show up in summer, or constant barking during storms, etc.).  Puppies and kittens normally have little built in histories by the time they get to the shelter, but because of the nature of a shelter--large numbers of animals moved in and out constantly--there is almost invariably some form of kennel cough, or upper respiratory disease contracted by many new pets from the shelter.  A trip to the vet after getting a pet from a shelter within a week is always a good idea.  Most shelters vaccinate their animals upon release and almost all now require neutering and spaying before adoption--a very good idea.  Shelters allow you to save an animal's life and to try to give a pet a loving home that it probably wasn't able to come from in the first place.
     No matter where you get your pet or how you get your pet, remember to give it plenty of love and help it to stay happy and healthy.  Any new addition to your family should be seen by a vet to make sure all its vaccinations are up to date as well as that its general health is good.  Often times when buying a pet the words "it's had all its shots" is said.  Make sure you know exactly which shots, and when they were given.  As discussed in our Vaccination section, pets need annual vaccines as well as boosters after initial vaccines, so no pet has truly had "all its shots".  When purchasing a pet the most important rule is to use common sense and ask questions.  Try not to buy a pet on emotions,a cute puppy or kitten is always hard to resist.  Buying a dog or cat should be like buying a car--always think long and hard about it, and don't be afraid to walk away if things don't seem right.  Buying a puppy that will grow to be too active or too big to fit into your life is not good for you or the dog.  These animals are pets for life, and deserve the perfect owner as much as you deserve the perfect pet.

     Part II Of Adopting a New Pet will be up in a few weeks.  Kennel training, litter box training, housebreaking and feeding your new pet will be discussed.  We also are offering our Kitten and Puppy Packages at Gladstone Animal Clinic, LLC.  These pacakages allow you to start your new pet on a healthy regiment of shots, deworming, parasite checks, and early heartworm and flea control at the most important times in its life.  Health Packages begin between 6-9 weeks of age and continue with a total of 3 pre-paid appointments until 16-17 weeks old.

Anal Sac Disease in Dogs

WHAT ARE ANAL SACS?

The anal sacs are small bean shaped structures located just inside the rectum near the anus.  Often incorrectly referred to as anal glands, these sacs do contain glandular tissue that secretes a clear to brownish liquid upon normal defecation.  The function of this secretion is unknown but may be involved in territorial/scent marking.

WHAT IS ANAL SAC DISEASE

Anal sac disease is most commonly seen in small breeds of dogs such as poodles and Chihuahuas but can be seen in any breed size of dog.  It is occasionally seen in cats.  There are three different forms of disease that we see;

Impaction

Sacculitis

Abscess formation

Signs seen in the three forms are very similar.

Impaction

This is the most common manifestation of anal sac disease.  The normally liquid secretions usually become thicker and dryer, making it difficult if not impossible for the dog to express the contents when having a bowel movement.  Signs seen at this stage are related to pain and discomfort involving the anus.  These include; scooting, licking or biting at the anal area, painful or prolonged defecation, discomfort when sitting down, tail chasing an suddenly jumping up while at rest. 

Treatment at this stage is usually uncomplicated and involves the veterinarian manually expressing the anal sacs.

Sacculitis

This condition occurs when the sacs become inflamed and often infected.  Signs at this stage are usually indistinguishable from those of an impaction, however the veterinarian may note a change in the type of material expressed from the sacs.  The sacs may also be more tender at this time. 

Treatment is more in depth at this stage and may involve the use of local and systemic antibiotics and anti-inflammatory agents.  In addition, flushing of the sacs may be required.

Abscess Formation

An abscess occurs when the sac is very inflamed and infected and the material is unable to be expressed.  The resultant swelling is visible to both the owner and the veterinarian.  The area around the anus is red, hot and painful.  There may also be a discharge from a ruptured sac.

Treatment of the abscess may involve the use of hot packs, lancing the sacs to allow drainage, local and systemic antibiotics and anti-inflammatory and daily therapy by the owner.  Chronic anal sac disease of an indication for surgical removal of the sacs.

Prevention

     Once you've brought your new puppy or kitten home it's hard to know what to do next!  Where to keep, what to feed, and how to train are the biggest questions asked after you have your new pet.  We'll discuss all those points and a few others below so you and your new pet can grow up together.

Your pet's new home:

Inside or Outside 
     After you get your new pet home trying to decide if it should be a mostly indoor or outdoor pet is a common question.  Whether it ultimately stays outdoors or not, all puppies and kittens should spend the first 5 or 6 months of age indoors.  Smaller cats may be picked on by other neighborhood animals, and puppies may not be able to tolerate the heat or cold as well.  Owners are more apt to detect diseases and health issues in pets that live indoors than those that live outside, resulting in longer lives and a happier and healthier pet.  Cats have many more dangerous issues to contend with if outdoors since they roam so much more; feline leukemia and FIV are deadly diseases they will be more exposed to if outdoors.  If your pet does end up outdoors most of the time, make sure it has plenty of fresh water at all times and a doghouse or area with plenty of shade.  Never hesitate to bring your dog inside if it becomes to cold or hot outside.
     When you bring a new cat (or dog) into the house make sure that it knows where the food and water bowl is.  In the case of cats, make sure that the food and water bowls aren't near the litter box (cats won't use a box where they eat).  When inside, cats will get extremely comfortable and will gladly roam the house after a few days of getting used to the new environment.  Cats rarely need a special bed or kennel to sleep in.  Dogs, however, do best if you purchase a kennel to keep them in whenever you can't be home or closely watching the puppy.

Kennel Training
      Some dogs can be trusted when alone and loose inside a house, but most puppies can get into trouble while you're gone.  A kennel helps to not only make the dog feel secure that he has his own "safe spot", but kennel training can also help with house training.  Most dogs won't eliminate where they sleep, so they will usually hold it while in the kennel.  Keep in mind, though, that if the kennel is too big for your puppy he may use one corner of the kennel as a bathroom.  If you do buy a large kennel that you plan on the puppy growing into, block off the back half of it with cinder blocks or some other object to make it temporarily puppy size for now.  Puppies may cry a lot when in a kennel and it can take time for them to get used to it if you take them out of the kennel every time they do.  Also, don't make the kennel a place only of punishment; make sure to give your dog treats whenever you put it in the kennel so that it associates the kennel with positive rewards.

Pet Introductions
     When introducing your new pet to your home, you also need to consider how to introduce it to other pets in the house.  The most important thing to remember is that the pet that was there first may feel threatened by a new addition to their home and may get very defensive and territorial.  The new puppy or kitten will normally have no problem with the older pet.  The best way to introduce a new puppy to another dog is to make sure that both are on a leash, and that they meet in a common meeting place first--somewhere away from the old dog's sleeping or eating areas.  It is also best to feed them separately for a few weeks.  Likewise, until you are sure the dogs get along consistently for a number of days, do not leave them together unsupervised.  Don't forget that in the case of dogs, there will be some dominance episodes (growling, pinning a dog down, mild fighting) to determine social rank--this is normal and should be allowed as long as it doesn't get too violent.
     Kittens should be introduced very gradually with both dogs and cats.  The best way to do this is to keep the kitten in a bedroom with the door closed for a number of days so that the cats never see each other but can smell each other under the door. After many days of doing this, switch the cats so that the older cat is in the bedroom and the kitten in the rest of the house.  By switching rooms the cats get used to each other's scent long before they meet each other.  Once again, make sure the cats are not unsupervised when you put them together.  Feed cats separately at first as well, and don't forget to supply at least one litter box per cat.  Your new pets will likely get along with your old pets if you are patient and don't rush it.

What to Feed
Puppies and kittens need a good quality food designed with a growing body in mind.  Puppy and kitten food is high energy and protein and should be fed instead of feeding an adult dog or cat food.  In new pets less than 8 weeks old, you may need to feed a canned food or moisten the dry kibble with water and feed about 3 times a day.  Once the pet is around 10 weeks old dry food is rarely a problem for the pet, and feedings many decrease to 2 times a day.  It is preferred that you put a carefully measured amount of food down for a set amount of time for your pet.  Usually 15 minutes is a good amount of time to allow your new pet to eat its food.  After that time it is best to remove the food.  This helps to not only know exactly how much food your pet eats at a sitting, but also to help regulate its defecation patterns and thereby assisting with house training.  Pets that have access to food all day long are not as easy to house train and have a higher incidence of obestiy.  Pets should remain on a puppy or kitten diet until about a year old before switching to an adult diet.  Special puppy or kitten treats are okay (especially during housetraining), but try to stay away from giving people food and milk.  Milk can cause diarrhea (not by causing worms, as the old rumor goes), and people food is often times too rich for many pets and can cause digestive upset.

House training your pet:

House Training Your Puppy
Probably the most difficult and daunting task for new puppy owners is how to house train your new dog.  Though house training can be exasperating at times, the most important thing to remember is to be consistent in your training and to be patient.  Puppies are not born knowing to bark at the door when they need to go outside.  It takes quite a bit of training and repetition to get the idea across to the puppy that outside is where they need to go.  Puppies under the age of 12 weeks are often times not able to physically hold their urine or stool very long, let alone handle house training as well.  However, many young puppies can learn at a young age.  The best and fastest way to accomplish house training is to kennel train you puppy as discussed above.  Kennel training involves keeping your dog in a kennel whenever you are at work, sleeping, or can't be watching the dog closely.  Make sure the kennel is big enough for the puppy to turn around in, but if it is too big the puppy may use a corner as a bathroom.  It's best to block off part of the kennel with bricks or other indestructible items and remove them as the puppy grows.  Since dogs won't usually eliminate where they sleep, kennel training can help train them to hold it.  As soon as you come home or when you're ready to play with your puppy, take it directly outside to go to the bathroom.  Rewarding the puppy immediately after it voids with both praise and a treat will reinforce that eliminating outdoors is a good thing to do.  Make sure you reward at that time and not after you come inside or else the puppy thinks it is being rewarded for coming inside.  Likewise, whenever you take the dog outside make sure you put it on a leash so that you are able to reward the dog as well as be able to observe any problems with the stool.  When going outside, always use the same door to go out so that the puppy makes a connection with that door and going outside.  If your pet doesn't go to the bathroom while outside, then you should put it back into the kennel and wait a while before trying again .  If the puppy is allowed to come in and play without going to the bathroom it may have an accident in the house.
     If your pet does have an accident in the house keep in mind that puppies have a very short memory when learning new things and that unless you see the puppy eliminating on the floor you can't punish it.  If you do catch it in the act never punish the dog by hitting it, a firm "NO" and a quick trip outside is all that's needed.  Rubbing a dog's nose in its mistake will do no good and serves only to make the dog fearful of you.  Likewise, if you find an accident you can't punish the dog long after the fact--the puppy doesn't understand why it is being punished and doesn't make the link between its accident and house training.  Finally, some dogs will learn not to eliminate in front of you indoors, but will sneak off to go somewhere else in the house.  Until your puppy is completely house broken and trusted, it should constantly be monitored with the use of baby gates, or by closing doors to corral the areas it can get to.
     For some people, paper training is an option instead of house breaking.  Wee-Wee pads (available at some pet stores) can assist in paper-training, but some dogs never quite get the hang of it.  Likewise, recently, a new litter box for dogs with special litter has been developed and is available at specialty pet stores to aid in a new method of house breaking.  

The Cat's Litter Box
As a general rule, kittens rarely need to be taught to use a litter box.  A kitten should be placed in the litter box after it is taken home so that it knows where to find it.  Location of a box is important.  The box shouldn't be in a high traffic area nor should it be in a loud area (such as near the clothes dryer).  Litter boxes should also not be difficult for the kitten to get into.  Covers on boxes generally trap odors in the box and can lead to cats not using it and should be avoided.  Try to have a least 1 box per cat in a household (remember that if you put 2 boxes side by side it still counts as only 1 box to the cat).  Finally, nearly any type of kitty litter is fine.  Cats usually prefer a finer grain of litter but it generally doesn't matter.  However, many cats don't like scented litters. Whichever kitty litter you get, make sure to stick with one brand and not to get whichever one is on sale at the time; cats don't deal well with change and litter boxes should remain constant in a kitten and cat's life to prevent future house soiling issues.  If your cat doesn't use the litter box please contact us.  If house soiling is caught early many things may be recommended to solve the problem.

Behavior Solutions

Dominance
     Dogs are very social animal and have a very specific hierarchy or pecking order within the "pack".  The "top dog" of the group is known as the Alpha dog.  The Alpha dog demands to be fed first and to have everything else given to it from the pack.  Because of this normal canine behavior, when a new puppy comes into a house, it adopts both the human and other pet members as its pack.  As the puppy approaches 6 months it will start to exert its place in the pack.  A puppy doesn't care whether it is the top dog or bottom in the pcack hierarchy just as long as it knows its place.  A puppy will try to be the Alpha dog within the family unless it is "challenged" and undeniably convinced it is not the top dog.  Dominance is a trait that is seen most commonly in dogs that feel they are the Alpha dog in a family.  Growling when it doesn't get its way, barking to be fed or when it demands attention, and even biting at owners over toys or food can all be examples of a puppy exerting this dominance over its owners.  However, dominance does not always equal aggression.  The best way to prevent dominance issues is by letting the puppy know it is not the Alpha dog in the family and that you are.  The easiest way to do this is to routinely roll the dog on its back, and stare down into its eyes.  This is known as an Alpha roll and it is what the Alpha dog in a pack would do to more submissive members.  You don't have to be mean about it, and this can be performed during play.  If the puppy struggles to get up from the Alpha roll, make sure you hold it in place until you are ready for it to get up.  Another thing that can be done to help prevent dominance is to make sure that if you play tug-o-war with a dog that the dog nearly never wins.  This may sound mean to do to the dog, but in dog packs tug-o-war is usually seen in the battle for food, and whoever wins usually gets higher status in the pack.  Remember this, a dog doesn't mind where it is in the social ranking--just as long as it knows exactly where it is at.

Chewing Up the House
     As a puppy approaches 5 to 6 months of age it will shed its baby teeth and adult teeth will come in in their place.  During this teething period, shoes, chair legs, and nearly everything else will get gnawed on.  This is normal but certain chew toys need to be supplied to help prevent damage to other items in the house.  Rawhide chew bones are okay if the puppy just chews on them and does not try to chew and eat the entire bone as fast as it can.  Nyla-bone brand bones, Greenies, and Kong toys are great chew toys for dogs and can be found in most pet stores.  If the dog is chewing on something it shouldn't, instead of punishing the dog, take it away and substitute the item with a toy that is okay to chew on.  In some cases, bad tasting sprays such as Bitter Apple spray can be applied to chair legs or other furniture to help prevent chewing.

Play Biting and Jumping
     Puppies are very hyper and very oral when playing.  Often, they get excited and will nip or bite at hands and feet.  When puppies play together, they jump on each other and bite in play. Unfortunately, most people don't like this type of play.  If your puppy bites and nips a lot during play, two main things can be done:  first take away the thing it is biting at (usually your hands) and don't offer to pet or play with your puppy until it settles down.  Secondly, a firm "no" helps.  Don't hit the puppy on the nose--if you watch puppies play with each other they will smack each other in the nose to encourage play; instead of preventing biting you may be encouraging it.
      Jumping up on owners is also a common behavior for puppies.  By jumping up on the owner the dog is trying to get your attention.  Therefore the best thing to do is not to acknowledge the dog when it jumps up.  Once the dog stops jumping up then you bend down and praise it.  Pushing the dog down when it jumps up on you involves you touching the dog and the dog may confuse that with being petted.  Taking a step backward and saying "no" in a stern voice followed by praise after the dog stops jumping up will help.

     Owning a new puppy or kitten can be a real challenge at times.  Knowing what to feed, where to keep, and how to house train a pet can be part of the challenge.  The most important thing is to be patient with your new pet, have it checked out by a veterinarian, and most of all, make sure to show it lots of love.

Puppies and kittens are often given as gifts,  because of this, there are a lot of new owners throughout the year that face the thoughts of elective surgeries for their pets.  These elective surgeries include spaying, neutering, and in the case of cats, declawing.  This month we will discuss the importance and concerns of these surgeries.

Getting Your Pet "Fixed"
The old adage of Don't fix it if it ain't broke! applies to nearly everything except your pet.  Spaying is the term we use for surgically "fixing" a female dog or cat (or ferret, or rabbit, etc.).  Neutering is the term used for surgically "fixing" a male dog or cat (ferrets, rabbits, etc.).  Either procedure is recommended for any dog or cat that you are not planning to breed.  Traditionally, dogs and cats are spayed or neutered anytime after 5 ½ to 6 months of age.   Not only does spaying and neutering help control the pet population and prevent unwanted litters, it also helps prevent many health problems your pet could face.

Spaying Your Pet- A spay surgery is also known as an Ovariohysterectomy.  The actual surgery involves making the incision on the pet's abdomen and removing the uterus and both ovaries.  Your pet's incision is normally closed with absorbable sutures (also known as stitches) and will not require a recheck to remove any stitches.  The pet will stay overnight one night and will get to go home the next afternoon.  After returning home, we recommend your pet's activity remain at a minimum for about a week to help ensure that there are no complications from the surgery.
    One important thing to remember about spaying your dog or cat is that we recommend that your pet not be in heat during the time of the spay.  Normally, a dog or cat's first heat cycle starts around 6 to 9 months, so the earlier you can get your pet spayed the better.  In the case of a dog, a heat cycle will last about 7 to 14 days and your dog will not come back into heat for approximately another 6 months.  Between heat cycles, your pet could then be spayed.  However, with cats, your pet will continue to go in and out of heat every couple of weeks or until she is either bred with or spayed.  In this case we do recommend spaying your cat as soon as you can, even if in heat.  With dogs, the risk of surgical complications increase during the time a dog is in heat due to the increased blood flow and fragility of the uterus.  This isn't as severe in cats.

Benefits of Spaying- Dogs and cats that aren't spayed are at very high risks of developing certain conditions.  Ovarian cancer, uterine cancer, and pyometra (a life-threatening infection of the uterus)--all of which are completely avoided with spaying--are commonly seen in intact females.  Breast cancer, also a very common disease in dogs and cats, has a significantly decreased incidence if your pet is spayed when young, and the risk may be reduced even more if the surgery is performed before the animal's first heat.
    Not only does spaying your pet prevent your pet from having an unwanted litter, it also helps to prevent serious life-threatening disease that can affect your pet.  Even if you are planning to breed your pet, make sure and have your pet spayed once you have finished breeding her--as soon as the pups or kittens are weaned is the best time (usually 4-5 weeks after birthing). 

Neutering Your Pet- Neutering, also known as castration, is a much simpler surgical procedure than a spay.  In a neutering surgery, the pet's abdomen is not actually entered, thereby allowing for a quicker recovery.  For dogs, a small incision is made near the groin and the testicles and the spermatic cords are removed.  Absorbable sutures are used for this procedure, as well.   After your pet goes home, we recommend your dog's activity to be reduced for about a week.  Because of a dog's propensity to lick at itself, we sometimes have to use an E-Collar to prevent your pet from causing inflammation and irritation at the incision site. In the case of cats, there are no sutures placed and everything is tied off internally.  As a general rule, cats heal much faster than dogs from a neuter. In both cases, the pet will spend the night at the clinic following the surgery.

Benefits of Neutering- Though an owner with a male pet doesn't have to worry about their pet getting pregnant if not "fixed", the likelihood of the pet jumping the fence, or escaping to find a female in heat, is very great.  Neutering will help to eliminate much of an pet's "wander-lust" and help to keep the pet in the yard.  Likewise, other behavioral problems seen in male dogs are often decreased or eliminated if the dog is neutered early enough:  aggression toward other animals, marking of territory (spraying walls, etc.), and humping is often controlled after neutering.  Many of the behavioral problems are first seen around 5-9 months of age.
      Other benefits of neutering your pet include the elimination of developing testicular cancers and tumors, as well as reducing many other prostatic problems seen in older males.  Some research does suggest that prostatic cancer and other diseases of the prostate can be decreased in frequency with neutering.  Getting your male neutered is definitely good for your pet's behavior and health.

Side Effects of "Fixing"- Many people hear that "fixing" your pet has many negative side effects.  Many anti-"fixing" stories float around saying that your pet won't grow to it's full size, or it won't be able to hunt as well, or always let your dog have a litter of pups before spaying.  None of these rumors are true.  There is ongoing research being done to determine if any bad effects occur in very early "fixing" of pets (those less than 5 months old) but so far, no bad effects have been proven.  It is true that your pet may gain weight after being spayed or neutered, but as long as you don't over feed your pet or give it a lot of treats or people food, this is controllable.  The health and well being of your pet can be dramatically improved with spaying or neutering your pet by about 6 months of age.  Call us anytime to set up an appointment or to ask any further questions about getting your pet spayed or neutered.

Getting Your Cat Declawed
One of the biggest questions we are asked is if a new kitten owner should get their cat declawed.  Declawing is definitely a decision of personal preference and is not always the right choice for everyone.  Declawing a cat is a surgery that involves the cat being under anesthesia and the claws on each foot (we recommend only the front feet) being removed.  A surgical adhesive and bandages are then placed on the cat's feet for a day.  The cat that is declawed stays with us in the hospital for two nights and then goes home without bandages.  Because of the nature of this procedure, we recommend every declaw receive pain medication after surgery, and that the cat use a different type of litter at home for at least a week--usually one made of a paper product so as to not irritate the healing toes.  The cat will probably be sore and will be walking gingerly for a few days after surgery.   However, the younger the cat, the quicker they bounce back from the surgery.  Kittens can be declawed anytime after 4 months of age.  We recommend "fixing" the cat and declawing at the same time to decrease the number of times the pet goes under anesthesia.
    Declawing a cat usually makes the cat become an indoor cat for life.  We do not recommend ever declawing a cat that spends a lot of time outdoors since they can't defend themselves as well.  Likewise, we strongly feel that declawing all four feet of a cat MUST make it a indoor cat only, since it's tree-climbing abilities are greatly reduced as well as its ability to flee a dog or other hazards outside.  

To Declaw or not to Declaw- The purpose of declawing your cat is to eliminate the ability of the cat to scratch up furniture, or to prevent inadvertent clawing of people.  Cats have the ability to retract their claws, but when excited or running around they will put them out for traction.  This can be harmful to furniture or to a lap if the cat uses such items as "take-off" points.  Cats use their claws to mark their territory as well as to sharpen their claws, and many can be trained to use a scratching post.  However, some prefer a couch or chair.  If your cat can't be swayed to use a scratching post, then declawing may be for you.  Likewise, if your cat doesn't seem be showing signs of scratching up furniture or you, then waiting on declawing is a good idea.  Declawing does not adversely affect a cat's physical or mental demeanor, so it strictly is a personal preference to have your pet declawed.

Alternates to Declawing- There are a couple of alternate methods to surgical declawing.  One is to trim your cat's nails routinely with a pair of human toenail trimmers.  This can be exceedingly difficult if your cat won't hold still, but if you just cut off the whitish sharp tips of each claw, it will cut down on "collateral scratches" you may suffer when your young cat runs across you in play.  The other method is with a product called Soft Paws.  Soft Paws are a soft plastic type of covering that vets can glue over the tops of your cats natural claws.  The Soft Paws don't interfere with walking or activity, and cats don't seem to notice they have them on.  Soft Paws do come off after awhile as the cat's nails continue to grow.  Typically, every 2 to 3 months they will need to be reapplied by your vet.  Gladstone Animal Clinic does have Soft Paws and can answer any questions you may have about them.

    As with any questions you may have about your pets' health, please call us at any time about Declawing, Spaying or Neutering.

Dogs and cats aren't the only pets people have these days. More people are venturing into the exotic pet field to find companionship, something to care for, or just an interesting pet to learn about.  Gladstone Animal Clinic is very proud to be able to cater to nearly all of your exotic pet needs. From cockatoos to chameleons, ferrets to snakes, hamsters to sugar gliders, we'll do what we can to give you the most information on how to give your pet the best possible home in your home.

Adopting an Exotic Pet
     Before setting out to get an exotic pet it is very important to decide what type of pet you are looking for.  Many people go to the pet store and buy an exotic pet just on impulse--a snake looks exceptionally cool to adopt or a sugar glider is adorable looking to own.  However, impulse buys are never a good idea when getting a pet.  Once you decide on a pet make sure you do research about the animal before actually adopting it.  . Its important to find out what type of environment and cage setup the pet needs to have as well as its special dietary requirements.  In some cases you need to know if the pet will get along with others of their species or if they will get along with other types of pets.  The answers to these questions are important know before the pet comes to your home.

Know Your Exotic Pet
     Many exotic pets are not exactly how you think they will be before buying them.  Hamsters, for example, become very aggressive toward other hamsters as they get older and should be housed separately (even though they are housed all together at the pet store).  Gerbils, however, do fine together in small groups.  Sugar gliders, though extremely cute, are not a "cuddly" pet and routinely can be difficult to handle.  Cockatoos are loud and can be very anxious, even developing feather-picking habits under stress.  Cockatiels are notorious for being chronic egg layers even if no males are around.
     Reptiles have lots of traits new owners may not know about.  Ball pythons, for example routinely go through a fasting period of not eating during winter months for maybe as long as 2-6 months.  Russian tortoises need to hibernate for nearly 5-8 months--not a very exciting pet!
     All of these traits should be known before the owner adopts these pets.  Books, pet stores, and the Internet can all be valuable sources--however, as with anything, always try to find multiple sources on these pets, especially when dealing with the Internet: if you can find a tidbit of information in only one location it may not be good information.  If you have any questions always consider calling your veterinarian to help you decide if a prospective exotic pet is right for you.

Housing for Your Pet
     Housing for your new exotic pet can take a lot of work.  A special home should be designed to house and keep your exotic pet--from a bird cage for our avian friends to a terrarium for lizards and snakes, and a rabbit hutch for Guinea pigs, rabbits, ferrets, and chinchillas.  Some housing structures don't work well.  For instance, small rodents shouldn't be housed in aquariums due to the fact the ammonia produced in their urine and droppings can't escape an enclosed aquarium and can be a health risk.  Soft, comfortable bedding is also important for small mammals.  Cedar is not ideal due to the high aromatic oils, pine or aspen shavings are best.
      Reptiles need to be housed in environments that best mimic their original ecosystems.  Desert reptiles like leopard geckos and bearded dragons need a sandy substrate, or bedding, and fairly high temperatures achieved with special light bulbs (hot rocks are never a good idea).  Snakes such as boas and pythons need a more humid environment.  Reptiles should always be researched before being purchased.

Your Pet's Diet
     Dietary problems are the number one mistake exotic pet owners make.  We are so used to buying bags of dog and cat food, we expect a similar convenience with exotic pets.  Unfortunately, most discount store commercial exotic pet foods are not that healthy to feed.  For most small rodents, seed mixtures are good but are not enough--green alfalfa pellets are needed as well.  Guinea pigs require additional Vitamin C and their diet should reflect it.  Rabbits also need Timothy grass, and pellets, as well as some fruits and vegetables (celery and iceberg lettuce have no nutritional value and shouldn't be fed).  Store bought "boxed" rabbit food is not enough, however Oxbow brand rabbit and guinea pig foods are very good and are trusted and recommend by vets--they supply both grass and pelleted diets to some pet stores.      Feeding reptiles can range from being simple to very difficult depending on what animal you have.  Constrictor snakes are fairly easy to feed since they eat infrequently, usually a mouse or rat every 2-3 days depending on your snake's size.  Dead or stunned prey is preferable to live prey to help prevent bites to your snake.  Other carnivorous reptiles such as geckos, chameleons and anoles eat crickets and mealworms that many bait shops and pet stores have.  Iguanas and water dragons are examples of herbivorous (plant-eating) reptiles but need a very large variety of fruits and vegetables.  High enough dietary calcium levels are always a common problem in non-snake reptile diets.  All food should be dusted with a calcium powder to help prevent metabolic bone disease.
     Birds, especially those larger than cockatiels, should not be fed seed diets exclusively.  Most of these birds should eat the same types of foods we eat:  vegetables, fruits, cereals, meat, eggs, nuts, etc.  Just make sure not to feed food that is too salty, sugary, or greasy.
      Exotic mammals such as ferrets and hedgehogs can eat cat food (however, Totally Ferret brand food is designed just for ferrets).

Vet Care for the Exotic Pet
     Finally, nearly all exotics, except ferrets, have no vaccinations to worry about.  However, we still recommend a check-up visit to your vet after you acquire your pet, to ensure they are healthy and to help answer any questions you might have.  A yearly exam is a good idea as well.  Beak, nail and wing trims are often necessary for birds and are usually performed every 3 months or so.
     Routine surgeries performed on traditional pets are also performed on some exotic mammals.  Ferrets are usually descented and neutered before being sold to a pet store, however it isn't unusual for some ferrets to need to be neutered in case they haven't been yet.  Rabbits, on the other hand, are routinely spayed and neutered by veterinarians after they're purchased.  Sugar gliders, guinea pigs, and even prarie dogs have all undergone neutering surgeries at Gladstone Animal Clinic as needed.
     Unfortunately there aren't a lot of veterinarians that will take care of exotics.  Exotic medicine is not taught with any great zeal in vet schools.  Most vets interested in treating exotic pets had to go to continuing education seminars, subscribe to exotic journals, and consult with other exotic veterinarians to educate themselves more.  We're lucky at Gladstone Animal Clinic that we have three doctors that will see exotics:  Dr. Dianne Barr treats birds, rabbits, ferrets, and most small mammals.  Dr. Corey Entriken and Dr. Andrew Rambo both see birds, all exotic mammals, and reptiles and amphibians.  The only pets we don't see are those with hooves or primates; we just aren't equipped to handle these types of pets.
     All exotic animals can get sick and have just as many medical problems as dogs and cats (we've had diabetic parakeets and mice with breast cancer).  Unfortunately, most small exotics such as birds and rodents, don't show any signs of illness when they are sick until the very advanced stages of the disease.  Once a bird begins to show symptoms it's probably very ill.  Don't put off a call for your sick rodent or bird--call your vet right away.  Reptiles, however, are the opposite:  they have slower metabolism, so illness and disease take longer periods of time to develop.  Conversely, those same reptiles do not get better from an illness quickly.

 The general thought with exotic pets is that if you think your pet is not doing well or acting right, it probably isn't.  If you have any questions or problems with your exotic pet call us at the Gladstone Animal Clinic and our exotic animal vets will do what we can to help your special pet with its special needs.

Heartworm Disease

What Every Pet Owner Should Know

 Heartworm Disease is a very serious problem in the Kansas City area affecting dogs and cats.  Heartworm disease refers to a condition caused by a parasite known as the Heartworm (Dirofilaria immitis) which is carried by mosquitoes.   Adult heartworms are large, white worms that grow up to 12 inches long. They live primarily in the large vessels that carry blood from the heart to the lungs (also known as pulmonary arteries).  When both male and female worms are present in these vessels, young heartworms known as microfilarie are produced and released into the circulatory system of the animal.   The heartworm disease is then able to be passed to other dogs and cats.  If a mosquito bites an infected pet, it will suck up the microfilariae along with the blood it ingests.   During the next 2 weeks, the immature heartworm will develop inside the mosquito.  After that time, when the mosquito bites another animal to feed, it will also inject the heartworm into the animal's blood stream.  The heartworm will then continue to grow inside its new host and make its way to that animal's heart in the next 3 to 4 months.  Once there, the adults will produce microfilarie and the cycle of disease begins again.  The life span of a heartworm is thought to be between 5 to 7 years.
   Anywhere from 1 to over 200 heartworms may reside in the heart and pulmonary arteries.  The arteries become thickened and inflamed due to the presence of the worms.  This causes the blood pressure in that area to increase and forces the heart to work harder.  Over time, this increased cardiac output can result in congestive failure of the heart and other organs, ultimately leading to death.   Since it takes heartworms so long to develop, it can be months before any clinical signs of disease are present in your animal.   Therefore, just because you do not see any symptoms doesn't mean your pet is not infected.
    A simple blood test can be performed by the Gladstone Animal Clinic that detects even an early heartworm infection.  Though heartworm disease can be lethal, it is potentially treatable if caught early enough.  Hospitalization will be needed for your pet and a series of two injections are required to slowly kill the heartworms in the bloodstream.  After treatment, your pet will need to be kept very quiet with minimal activity for the next month or so.  However, the best way to avoid heartworm disease is prevention.  
      Heartworms can be prevented in a number of ways, but the most common type of preventative is a once a month oral medication.  Heartguard®, Interceptor®, and Sentinel® are all very effective against heartworms. These pills are given once a month, 12 months a year (remember, warm snaps can come suddenly during the winter in the Midwest--long enough for mosquitos to emerge).  There is also one product, Revolution®, which works not as a pill but as a topical "spot-on" product that is applied between the shoulder blades once a month.   Be aware, though, there are many types of "spot-on" products.  Only Revolution® through your veterinarian, actually prevents heartworms!
            All dogs must be tested for heartworms before starting a monthly preventative.  If your pet has heartworms when you give the medication, you can actually cause a severe to fatal reaction.  With this in mind we recommend all dogs over the age of 6 months be tested prior to starting the preventative, and then each year before starting on it again if the preventative is stopped during the winter months.   However, if the preventative is given monthly all year long, with no breaks in the dosage schedule, a heartworm test every 2 years is recommended.
    Preventing heartworm disease is just as important as getting your pet vaccinated.  Dogs have always been the main focus of preventing heartworms, but newer information shows a need to protect cats as well.  Heartguard® and Revolution® are the only products approved for use in cats.  Below is a table to help you decide the best heartworm prevention for you--all of which are available at Gladstone Animal Clinic.   Also below is a list of clinical signs seen in moderate to advanced heartworm disease.  Remember, early disease often does not have any symptoms; getting your pet tested is the best way to know for sure.   Call us if you have any further questions about heartworm testing or prevention.  Have your pet tested for heartworms today!

Clinical Signs in Moderate to Advanced Heartworm Disease
  Remember, early heartworm disease may have no symptoms!

1.      Exercise intolerance

2.      Coughing

3.      Loss of appetite

4.      Weight loss

5.      Labored breathing

            ¹ Prevents roundworms & hookworms.
            ² Prevents roundworms, hookworms, & whipworms.
            ³ Does not kill fleas, but makes them sterile and unable to reproduce.
            ⁴ Does prevent roundworms and hookworms in cats only.
            ⁵ Product given by injection by your veterinarian.

Your pet has a Silent La